Newbie observations a.k.a. stating the obv's

[Ickle_legs]

Got an eMTB (Spesh Levo base)in part to keep up with my much younger riding buds on the uphill bits - perfectly timed to coincide with social distancing!!
So thoughts a few solo rides in
- heavy? Hell yeah, certainly need revised technique for sharp downhill turns but the plus is even Eco uphill is a godsend meaning more downhill ?
- for the lazy? If that's your bag, but for me - last trip on my analogue around QEP heart rate recorded as 144avg 168max, few weeks later on the Levo all done in stock Eco setting heart rate 155avg 171max ; despite the assist I'm having trouble staying out of HR zones 4&5 ??
- tyre pressures currently at 13psi/16psi F/R as only way to get grip with the Spesh rubber; think I'll need more psi for rockier trails or change to say Minions
- Rockshox 35? It works, but can't decide if I'm thinking of upgrading it just because subconsciously I know it's the base model or that I'll really benefit from a bit of investment
- SRAM components? Meh! Guide RE brakes difficult to modulate ATM, gear downshifting lacks the useful 2way lever found on Shimano, can't pivot the dropper remote to get the angle right when brake lever is angled as I like
- was eMTB the right way to go? Defo, might have preferred say the lighter Levo SL but that lacked VFM IMO and the battery needed to be quicker/easier to remove

 

[Waynemarlow]

- for the lazy? If that's your bag, but for me - last trip on my analogue around QEP heart rate recorded as 144avg 168max, few weeks later on the Levo all done in stock Eco setting heart rate 155avg 171max ; despite the assist I'm having trouble staying out of HF zones 4&5 ??

Doesn't seem to work out on EBikes as thought, I use almost the same rates on analogue or Ebike, but the distance and fun factor are way different

 

[Ickle_legs]

Doesn't seem to work out on EBikes as thought, I use almost the same rates on analogue or Ebike, but the distance and fun factor are way different

It certainly dispels the myths put about by the haters/nay sayers.
When the lockdown is over I'm going back to QEP to try it in Trail mode to see if that helps my HR

 

[Waynemarlow]

Try to lower your cadence a bit if you are a regular analogue rider, you are getting into the upper limit of the best motor rpm if you're spinning higher than say 85 rpm, the motor will hit a brick wall ( to do with the way the motor works ) which means you are fighting not only against the hills but also the motor windings. I found if I use a slower cadence / higher gear I get the same result speed wise and use less overall energy both in the battery and my own tank. Feels strange at first but you soon adapt.

 

[Ickle_legs]

Try to lower your cadence a bit if you are a regular analogue rider, you are getting into the upper limit of the best motor rpm if you're spinning higher than say 85 rpm, the motor will hit a brick wall ( to do with the way the motor works ) which means you are fighting not only against the hills but also the motor windings. I found if I use a slower cadence / higher gear I get the same result speed wise and use less overall energy both in the battery and my own tank. Feels strange at first but you soon adapt.

Excellent tip thanks - I'd read that cadence was key but know the last ride I was often higher than 85rpm- which coincidentally is my norm on my road ride, hopefully means shouldn't be too hard to train my brain/legs when off-road.?

 

[Waynemarlow]

Its actually more difficult than you think to retrain your legs, I tend to be about 85rpm cadence which when I bought my first motor was a shock as it topped out at about 75rpm ( TSDZ2 ) and it took weeks to learn where the motor runs out of puff. I had to think more like a diesel car than a petrol car and it sort of stuck

With the availability of Free Ware for the motor now we can put it into an experimental mode + run it at 52 volts which means I can spin almost the same on both bikes, much better.