New chain guide needed....
- Thread starter thebarber
- Start date
Me n @R120 have discussed them
There are quite a few options now mate. Reverse, XLC, Funn, MRP, E13 and Shimano all do 'em now.
Just make sure you get E mount for Steps as the bolt diameter is completely different than ISCG or ISCG05.
Haven't personally used any other than the Shimano so can't give you any experience of which work best but any 2 bolt guide is going to be a lot nicer to deal with than the 3 bolt Shimano that requires removing your chainring to remove/fit.
@R120 has tried a few I believe so no doubt will reply too and we can all benefit from this blossoming internet "friendship"
There are quite a few options now mate. Reverse, XLC, Funn, MRP, E13 and Shimano all do 'em now.
Just make sure you get E mount for Steps as the bolt diameter is completely different than ISCG or ISCG05.
Haven't personally used any other than the Shimano so can't give you any experience of which work best but any 2 bolt guide is going to be a lot nicer to deal with than the 3 bolt Shimano that requires removing your chainring to remove/fit.
@R120 has tried a few I believe so no doubt will reply too and we can all benefit from this blossoming internet "friendship"
The steps chainring and spider are just 4 bolt 104bcd standard same as most mtb cranks used for the last 2 decades before direct mount bollocks became super popular.
To remove the chainring you just need to remove the chainring bolts. a 4mm hex and something to stop the tabs at the rear rotating. (My bolts were 4mm hex but I changed them to 5mm)
There's a specific tool for holding the tabs and you should be able to pick one up for about a fiver
but you can usually get away with jamming an open spanner in each tab to hold it while you undo the bolt.
I'm "fairly" sure the chainguide backplate will slip over the Steps Spider while still attached to the motor.. But TBH. I can't actually remember as I have the correct lockring tool for removing the spider from the motor. The tool is fairly pricy (£40ish) so if your guide is fucked it'd be cheaper to just saw through the fucker and fit a new 2 bolt version.
To remove the chainring you just need to remove the chainring bolts. a 4mm hex and something to stop the tabs at the rear rotating. (My bolts were 4mm hex but I changed them to 5mm)
There's a specific tool for holding the tabs and you should be able to pick one up for about a fiver
but you can usually get away with jamming an open spanner in each tab to hold it while you undo the bolt.
I'm "fairly" sure the chainguide backplate will slip over the Steps Spider while still attached to the motor.. But TBH. I can't actually remember as I have the correct lockring tool for removing the spider from the motor. The tool is fairly pricy (£40ish) so if your guide is fucked it'd be cheaper to just saw through the fucker and fit a new 2 bolt version.
I have tried the stock one, E13, and Funn.
E13 is garbage imo, cheap bit of plastic. I would go with the Funn or Reverse components. I did take the spider off when I replaced mine, so don't know if the OEM one fits over it.
Its worth getting the spider locking tool anyway as handy for maintenance. Neither the Funn or Reverse chain guide need the spider removing to take off and on again though.
www.funnmtb.com
reverse-components.com
E13 is garbage imo, cheap bit of plastic. I would go with the Funn or Reverse components. I did take the spider off when I replaced mine, so don't know if the OEM one fits over it.
Its worth getting the spider locking tool anyway as handy for maintenance. Neither the Funn or Reverse chain guide need the spider removing to take off and on again though.
Zippa Lite ES | Funn - mountain bike components
Discover the Funn Zippa Lite ES, a compact, lightweight chain guide designed for seamless compatibility with Shimano E7000 and E8000 eBike motors.
www.funnmtb.com
Flip-Guide E-Chainguide for Shimano | Reverse Components
No more dropped chains. The Flip guide is our latest chainguide solution which allows the user to make quick adjustments and "flip" the guide out of the way by hand when removing the crank.By hand, you can flip the upper guide out of the way and into the "service" position for easy chain...
Anyone know of a UK seller with stock of the Zipp or Reverse? Google not revealing much and I'm not keen on ordering from Germany given the current shit storm we've created for ourselves
REVERSE Chain Guide E-Flip Shimano Steps EP8 E8000 E7000 eMTB eBike | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for REVERSE Chain Guide E-Flip Shimano Steps EP8 E8000 E7000 eMTB eBike at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
Ordered the two last Reverse ones from that seller, just turned up. Not very impressed for £35, looking at the materials and quality of construction should cost half that and they would still be making a healthy profit. Zipp one looks better from the photos. Anyway, will mount it up and see how it goes
Welcome to bicycle component pricing Dave.
TBF one look at the pic and you can see its a basic flat boomerang backplate with slots and a plastic top guide.
MRP made a very healthy business plan from selling nothing more complicated at way higher prices for over a decade back in the '00s
#Progress
TBF one look at the pic and you can see its a basic flat boomerang backplate with slots and a plastic top guide.
MRP made a very healthy business plan from selling nothing more complicated at way higher prices for over a decade back in the '00s
#Progress
How important are chain guides on bikes with narrow/wide chains?
I guess you mean chainring? All chains are narrow wide
Not losing your chain on a bike with a motor which turns the chainring independently of the riders input (ie. Over run) and can't be back pedalled is far more important than on a normal bike.
I couldn't possibly quantify how important that might be to you. But to me it's paramount. And I don't run a chain guide at all on either of my DH bikes.
Make of this what you will.
Not losing your chain on a bike with a motor which turns the chainring independently of the riders input (ie. Over run) and can't be back pedalled is far more important than on a normal bike.
I couldn't possibly quantify how important that might be to you. But to me it's paramount. And I don't run a chain guide at all on either of my DH bikes.
Make of this what you will.
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