gear indexing

[cjm_wales]

So I've pretty much got my E-sommet VR ready for it's first proper ride (bought from CRC).

I couldn't check the cassette lockring torque because I don't have the tool - it'll hopefully arrive tomorrow.

I spent a good 15 minutes checking the shifter operation on the workstand after reading horror stories on here and it seems fine, up and down through the gears. Is there anything obvious that would indicate a poor setup?

Also - torque settings. The Vitus manual doesn't have any. I can't find any on the web either - I've 'nipped' up the bolts that felt looser than they should feel, but without actual NM figures for each bolt, I'm simply chancing it....

Any other gotchas?

 

[RocketMagnet]

See below for Torque settings:
E-Sommet bearing numbers and torque values - EMTB Forums

I would personally use a Threadlock on the Speed Sensor Magnet. Apply to the threads of speed sensor screw and tighten back up.. allow to cure overnight and dribble some more threadlock in and allow to cure again for a few hours. You definitely don't want that thing flying off into the bushes.

If it's shifting fine in the stand then its probably good.. it may drift a bit during use as the cable may stretch a tiny bit through use but a you can usually sort it using the barrel adjuster. Just confirm the high and low limits are set properly and you can't shift it into the wheel. Grab the cassette and see if there is any play if not its probably ok.
Breaking teeth off the cassette is probably a mix of poor setup and poor shifting (user error), it's basically the same as a normal bike and you can "feel" the shift just fine but just be careful until you get used to it and really lay off the pedal power as you shift and spin lightly as it shifts gear.

Make sure your battery is tight in mount with no play see here:
In addition I would threadlock the clamp bolts while your at it .. I did. If there is play the motor can cut out while riding.

PLEASE NOTE the Horst link bolts are a very low 6NM so do not overtighten those, I assume it's these you thought were loose... see above link!

 

[R120]

I would say be gentle on the drive train, and back off the power when shifting, always make sure the chain is clean and nicely lubed.

My experience with EMTB drivetrains is that they are at their most delicate when new, and once the chainring, chain and cassette have all bedded in together (for want of a better phrase) they start to operate a lot more smoothly.

I have popped two chains, and both where in the first 100 miles of use, and as a result of hamfisted gear changes uphill under load.

 

[cjm_wales]

Thanks for the extremely useful advice, guys.

 

[RocketMagnet]

In addition to what R120 said a grunge brush + degreaser is great keeping the chain as best as it can be.. Avoid Ceramic containing lubes, IME they are fine for road bikes but drive train killers for MTBs.

I personally use Purple Extreme exclusively now having tried all sorts over the decades and it's the only thing I will ever use for all conditions.

 

[Gary]

Poor shifting issues can come from the poor outer cable routing around the motor causing added friction.
overtightening the zipties on the swingarm (near the pivot) can cause extra friction too.

I've had 2 ESommets and 4 motors between them. Some were fitted with good clean frictionless cable routing, others not so much.

 

[cjm_wales]

Just took it out for a very brief shakedown in the local woods.

First impressions: it's pretty nice. It's going to take a while to get used to the sizing. The cockpit feels cramped when sat pedalling. In the attack position it feels absolutely fine, easy to move weight back and forth. And I managed my longest manual so far (maybe 3 metres!) - it's very easy to get the front end up.

The dropper post feels pretty naff if I'm honest. It definitely needs dropping a couple of cm as the seat got in the way a bit, even all the way down. The lever is crap.

And on the way down, I slipped on a root. Luckily I wasn't going to fast, but I did almost lose it, ending up leaning against a tree to my right.

After saving it I looked down and the bike had turned itself off. I guess this isn't normal? It powered back up first press.

Another observation - the front end felt totally planted. Even in the damp. That might be partly down to the minion DHF; but the bike went where I pointed it. Nice.

 

[RocketMagnet]

Yeah I changed the dropper lever to Wolftooth and imo the post is too slow but it gets the job done. It's hard to be too critical considering the competitive price.

Maybe you knocked the button somehow or the battery mount needs to be a little bit tighter.

I find this bike really stands out in really rough terrain and personally i'm faster on my Santacruz than on my E Sommet of flow style trails.

Skip the first 30 seconds and you'll see I struggle to hold speed and still overbrake into corners.. ultimately between the timed points on this run i'm a good 10-15 seconds slower on the Vitus.. not trying this run as I rode for fun testing the gopro not the quick lines but still miles behind when I do try:

Getting a bit better jumping the Vitus but still a bit embarrassing at times.
Lifes too short so skip to 4:25-4:45

I'm a total convert for the fork and my Fox Factory snobbery is well an truly buried.

 

[cjm_wales]

Ok, proper first impressions (from the uplift bus at BPW):

The suspension is incredible. I can actually feel the difference when dialling out high speed compression. I started the day with the settings it shipped with and it was way too harsh.

Gearchange is fine!

I think it's going to take me a while to adapt to the smaller frame. I've almost gone over the bars on table top jumps twice. The second time would have been a huge smash. It's super sensitive to body positioning. I need more practice or tuition.

I was jumping fine on the jam2.

 

[R120]

What size do you have - Size for size the Vitus is a bigger/longer bike vs the Jam? Mine is the moist stable bike I think I have ever had

 

[cjm_wales]

What size do you have - Size for size the Vitus is a bigger/longer bike vs the Jam? Mine is the moist stable bike I think I have ever had

The vitus (small frame) is quite a bit shorter than the Jam2 (large).

It also carries the weight differently - very centralised compared to the Jam2 which has cells all the way up the downtube.

I think it's a case of poor technique plus different physics - or that the Jam2 allowed me to write jumping cheques my body could cash but with the odd bounce fee....

What I did notice is that it was very easy to adjust in-flight. And that saved me from a guaranteed trip to A&E.

 

[R120]

Ok that makes a bit more sense, I ride a Large myself. I would say the inherent design of the Vitus makes it a far more chuckable bike, as you say they have done a good job of centralising/getting the weight low down in the frame.

 

[cjm_wales]

Ok that makes a bit more sense, I ride a Large myself. I would say the inherent design of the Vitus makes it a far more chuckable bike, as you say they have done a good job of centralising/getting the weight low down in the frame.

In all other respects I cannot fault this machine.

 

[RocketMagnet]

I'm 6 foot and on a large also.. they are relatively big bikes however, but mainly from saddle height. Maybe tinker with the Saddle position and stem length/spacer height etc?

Was at BPW last week for a couple of days on my SC and I really missed the E Sommet Front Fork on the rougher areas when I was getting a bit of arm pump, though I may have put my back out or damaged my knee putting an E Sommet on the uplift as it's a good 10kg+ heavier.

I agree with R120 the best thing about the design Vs a concealed battery is better weight distribution. Weight low and centralised is far better IMO to lower the centre of gravity of the bike hence improving stability... Rocket Science it isn't...

 

[Polaris]

back to the gear changing, I find that on the stand mine shifts perfectly, but when riding (always backing of the power) it feels like my chain is getting ripped off the cassette latterally. It feels and sounds painful. Ive tried all adjustments but cant get it to skip cogs smoothly

 

[RocketMagnet]

Have you checked you chain length is correct, there is no play in the linkage or the rear derailleur cable isn't being restricted as the linkage cycles?

Is it ghost shifting while riding?

IME the M8000 shifts easily

 

[Polaris]

Have you checked you chain length is correct, there is no play in the linkage or the rear derailleur cable isn't being restricted as the linkage cycles?

Is it ghost shifting while riding?

IME the M8000 shifts easily

No ghost shifting just dog rough, and I suspect its the correct chain as its stock and a 2019 model?! But I will check, thanks

 

[Mikerb]

just re indexed mine and found the only successful way was to start from scratch. Clean and lube everything/put the adjuster in a position where there is adjustment both ways/ disconnect the cable, manually push and release the derailleur to check it reaches top and bottom gears without over- reaching...adjust the stops as required/ check free movement of cable...lube or check routing or replace if any friction/ reconnect cable with a bit of tension/ use adjuster to get sweet changing....one click can make all the difference.

 

[RocketMagnet]

I agree with Mikerb you need to baseline the setup. I done this out of the box and checked high/low, B Screw and finally released set cable tension.. basically as though I was fitting a brand new derailleur. An incorrect B Screw could be the issue and your upper jockey wheel is too close or too far away from the cassette?

I've noticed quite a lot of people both friends and people on the trail I've helped fix gear issues, I'm no "gear whisperer" I just spent a little time learning how to do it and that's all it takes. Being able to fix stuff at the trail side has saved me wasting many a long drive somewhere so worth investing some time in IMO.

One thing I just didn't bother checking was hanger alignment as I only check this if my setup doesn't work after I set it up as a last resort.