FU KS Lev!!

Nov 1, 2018
24
9
3
'Merica
Ride
Commencal
#1
Less than two months old and this dropper has the dreaded sag, soft top, etc. Just like my POS Reverb it sucked in air into the damper and had to get repaired for big money. We'll see how KS warranty handles it. In the meantime installing my Fox Transfer that has been super dependable for over a year but I needed to buy either a 7000 switch from Europe or a vertical dropper lever that works with the 8000 switch. I went with the new lever. Also had to drop the motor to route the new dropper cable which required the special tool to remove the chainring. What a PITA.
 

Kernow

E*POWAH Elite
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Jan 18, 2018
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Cornwall uk
#2
Less than two months old and this dropper has the dreaded sag, soft top, etc. Just like my POS Reverb it sucked in air into the damper and had to get repaired for big money. We'll see how KS warranty handles it. In the meantime installing my Fox Transfer that has been super dependable for over a year but I needed to buy either a 7000 switch from Europe or a vertical dropper lever that works with the 8000 switch. I went with the new lever. Also had to drop the motor to route the new dropper cable which required the special tool to remove the chainring. What a PITA.
Dropper posts all a pain , I like the newer reverb best , finding cable posts more hassle .

Presume from your post you have shimano motor. What bike is it in , just wondering why you needed to remove the chainring carrier to drop the motor
 
Nov 1, 2018
24
9
3
'Merica
Ride
Commencal
#3
The chainring hides the chain guide bracket which in turn hides the right rear engine mount bolt so needed both special tools to remove the carrier locknut. Not cheap, @$90 for tools...but now I have them for next time which I'm cool with. Can never have enough tools!

Tried to reuse the existing cable housing already threaded through the frame but I dumbassed the install and pulled the housing too far and it came out of the seat tube. Simply no way to thread it back into the seat tube without dropping the motor at this point. The cable runs are too snug with the motor in place making threading the cable housing impossible, at least in my shadetree mechanic garage!

Bike is the 29 Race and is friggin' awesome!!
 

njn

Well-known member
Founding Member
Mar 14, 2018
300
117
73
USA
#4
My chain guide was misaligned from the factory as it was too far forward allowing the chain to rub in high gear. I was able to access all of the bolts with the chainring installed. It looks like if the chain guide is rotated, the rear motor bolt is accessible.

I was considering purchasing the spider removal tool in order to install a DH chain guide but found out the bolt pattern is unique to Shimano and no standard ISG 05 guides will fit.

I've never used a KS product, my Meta Power came with a Reverb which has been fine. The Reverb on my SJ, not so much in the cold.
 

craig landau

Active member
Dec 19, 2018
97
68
28
brisbane australia
Ride
demo 8 160/900 e
#5
ive used ks lev on my last 3 bikes
img_1501-jpg.9030
never had a issue , clear silicoln held the cable inplace
 
Nov 1, 2018
24
9
3
'Merica
Ride
Commencal
#7
As an update, I have to say that the turnaround from KS USA was probably the best warranty turnaround I have ever had for any product, ever. Granted they are only 1 state away but I received a rebuilt post within 5 days. It looks brand new but the work order shows just replacement parts. Since I already installed my old transfer post I’ll just put this one away for future if needed. Still not sold on the product though because the seat is the main lifting point for the rear of the bike and if the post doesn’t lock out and sucks in air into cartridge then that’s a no go for me. And according to the numerous posts online this isn’t a one off incident.
 
Nov 1, 2018
24
9
3
'Merica
Ride
Commencal
#8
And BTW, dropping the motor is straightforward but is really tight in the frame mount. It required a lot of persuasion to free it. Getting it back in was similar. Make sure to follow the Shimano specs for the install. And make sure that the motor cable is securely plugged in. Mine came undone during disassembly and when I put it back together the system didn’t fire up. Major oh shit moment until I took off the left side cover and found the cable unplugged. Glad I didn’t have to drop the motor again.
 

R120

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Staff member
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Apr 13, 2018
3,660
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Surrey
#9
I have a Reverb on my old bike with the new 1x lever, a fox transfer factory on my hardtail, and a Brand X on the FS. Both the Transfer and Brand X are teamed up with One Up Lever.

Have to say the Brand X has been faultless in over a thousand miles, the reverb is great when it works but a faff to service and doesn’t like cold weather, and the transfer is a bit temperamental too, not always returning to full extension.

Shows that spending money on droppers guaretees nothing, I would happily run the Brand X on any bike.
 

dirt huffer

E*POWAH Master
Dec 3, 2018
288
178
123
Minneapolis
www.commencalusa.com
Ride
Commencal Meta Power
#10
Still not sold on the product though because the seat is the main lifting point for the rear of the bike and if the post doesn’t lock out and sucks in air into cartridge then that’s a no go for me. And according to the numerous posts online this isn’t a one off incident.

So would you advise not lifting the bike by the seat when the post is dropped?
 

Kernow

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Jan 18, 2018
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Cornwall uk
#11
I have a Reverb on my old bike with the new 1x lever, a fox transfer factory on my hardtail, and a Brand X on the FS. Both the Transfer and Brand X are teamed up with One Up Lever.




Have to say the Brand X has been faultless in over a thousand miles, the reverb is great when it works but a faff to service and doesn’t like cold weather, and the transfer is a bit temperamental too, not always returning to full extension.

Shows that spending money on droppers guaretees nothing, I would happily run the Brand X on any bike.
Good to hear about the brand x I’ve just removed a brand new one from daughters vitus mainly because she wanted 150 drop instead of 125 so was going to sell the new brand x
We’ve stuck with the reverbs because they’ve been reliable 100 % out of the four we have plus easy to change over between bikes if we do have a problem
I seemed to be constantly changing cables on the old giant post and the ks lev we had before I think the cable routing is more fussy on a cable and that was the problem the suspension pivot through the downtube on giant can be a problem
 

R120

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Apr 13, 2018
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#12
The routing on variations between bikes definitely plays a big part in how well posts perform IMO - A cable dropper can perform well on one bike if well routed, and nots so well on another if badly on another if routed badly. With my cable droppers I run the cable as short as I can, which usually means I have to pull the outer thought the frame a bit if I want to remove the post.
 
Nov 1, 2018
24
9
3
'Merica
Ride
Commencal
#13
So would you advise not lifting the bike by the seat when the post is dropped?
It is not recommended. If the design doesn’t have a positive lockout in both directions at any point in the travel then the cartridge can get air sucked into it if pulled up causing a soft top or spongy feeling at full lockout. This sucks cause you constantly hear the post extending when you unweighted it during riding, a constant clunk, clunk, clunk. My Reverb was the same way and had to be rebuilt at $150. There are much better designs nowadays. My Fox Transfer Performance has been faultless and now resides on my Meta Power.
 

Kernow

E*POWAH Elite
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Jan 18, 2018
1,103
646
263
Cornwall uk
#14
The chainring hides the chain guide bracket which in turn hides the right rear engine mount bolt so needed both special tools to remove the carrier locknut. Not cheap, @$90 for tools...but now I have them for next time which I'm cool with. Can never have enough tools!

Tried to reuse the existing cable housing already threaded through the frame but I dumbassed the install and pulled the housing too far and it came out of the seat tube. Simply no way to thread it back into the seat tube without dropping the motor at this point. The cable runs are too snug with the motor in place making threading the cable housing impossible, at least in my shadetree mechanic garage!

Bike is the 29 Race and is friggin' awesome!!
Sorry didn’t reply to this , just for info there is no need to remove the sprocket carier unless your fully removing the motor , just unbolt the chainring from the carier and the rear bolts can be loosened , remove the other motor bolts and the motor will hinge up right out of the way on the rear bolts to access whatever you neeed to .
I presume this could apply to all shimano equipped bikes
 

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