E-Sommet VR on Order.... So, what do I need to know

[Trailing Edge]

So, for those who’re in my position (I.e. very new to this bike).

It’s been out for two rides now. Mostly XC / singletrack. And I have to say it’s the first bike I’ve ever owned out of the box where I feel I don’t need to change anything!

Once the brakes are bedded in they’re progressive and powerful. I’d give them a chance before splashing out on Hope brakes.

It makes me climb like a mountain goat and it descends like a monster truck. Geometry is just about perfect, tyres are staggering, finishing kit is excellent, the dropper lacks the refinement of a reverb. But it works perfectly and that’s good enough for me.

It’s going on it’s firsts proper DH outing today. Will report back again if anyone’s interested.

If you’re reading this and thinking of buying one, then I’d encourage you to pull the trigger. It really is a cracking bit of kit.

 

[Trailing Edge]

And on a another note. And I don’t think these things are a problem. But I’d just like to run it past your collective experience.

1. I’ve got a slight rattle / squeak from the battery housing as I ride the bike. The battery seems quite secure so I’m not particularly worried. Is that normal? Any way to stop it?

2. My understanding of the RC3 rear shock is that it has three compression lockout positions. I can only seem to find two. I don’t want to force the lever trying to find the third.

Are there three positions or two?

(And I did check, there’s an RC3 label on the shock)

Cheers, Tim

 

[Wellsywellsy]

I used a piece of inner tube, cut to size and slid under some of the cables and then under the bracket towards the front. Just enough to stop crap getting lodged in there and doesn't affect the shock. Then when washing the bike can just rinse off and any mud just washes away.

 

[RocketMagnet]

And on a another note. And I don’t think these things are a problem. But I’d just like to run it past your collective experience.

1. I’ve got a slight rattle / squeak from the battery housing as I ride the bike. The battery seems quite secure so I’m not particularly worried. Is that normal? Any way to stop it?

2. My understanding of the RC3 rear shock is that it has three compression lockout positions. I can only seem to find two. I don’t want to force the lever trying to find the third.

Are there three positions or two?

(And I did check, there’s an RC3 label on the shock)

Cheers, Tim

It's 3 position.. facing from the NON drive side it's clockwise from 3,6 to ~ 9 o'clock.
3= Open
6= Platform
9 = Lockout

I presume your thinking it's 12,3,6?

As for the squeak it could be from anywhere really as it's often hard to tell .. just redo the battery clamp position. I'd remove the battery and test ride it to make sure it's definitely that though.

 

[Trailing Edge]

It's 3 position.. facing from the NON drive side it's clockwise from 3,6 to ~ 9 o'clock.
3= Open
6= Platform
9 = Lockout

I presume your thinking it's 12,3,6?

As for the squeak it could be from anywhere really as it's often hard to tell .. just redo the battery clamp position. I'd remove the battery and test ride it to make sure it's definitely that though.

Thanks for that. Yes, I just wasn’t giving the lever enough welly. To scared of braking my new bike!

 

[Wellsywellsy]

Use the steps app to see if there's a firmware update for the motor, latest one smoothed the transition of how the motor switches on and off.

Inner tubes as supplied are heavy DH ones so tubeless is a must. You will need tape and sealant. Mine went up easy with a ghetto inflator and soapy water.

Spray some silicone spray or furniture polish on the dropper cable outer if it's reluctant to move initially, it might save you having to drop the motor.

I was shocked when I pulled the inner tubes out, they are massive.

 

[Gary]

I’ll be fitting the Time Atacs, saddle and grips from my five onto it. I figured that for £50 difference the brakes were worth a switch as I like the feel of the Hopes. Has anybody made a cover to keep mud out of the gap in front of the shock?

Sorry. Was in a rush last reply.
I have filled the space below the cable nest with motofoam and also the open section of the motor (at the top when you open/remove the connector compartment - 3 cross head screws.
I also have sealant on edges of the connector compartment case.
I then cut a mudguard out of black packaging plastic (SPAR chicken Pakora) and attached it with a strip of gaffertape at the front (so it can easily be flapped forward to clean behind it,

My MK1 Esommet would fill with dirt/water if the cable nest was washed (hosed) too vigourously.
The above is the fix/

there're pics of my mudguard in the massive Esommet thread if you're struggling to imagine what I've described

 

[Riksbar]

I used a piece of inner tube, cut to size and slid under some of the cables and then under the bracket towards the front. Just enough to stop crap getting lodged in there and doesn't affect the shock. Then when washing the bike can just rinse off and any mud just washes away.

Thanks for that, I’ll give it a go!

 

[RocketMagnet]

I've personally had zero issues without putting a guard on it, I just wash the bike as normal, bounce the excess off then take 5 mins with a drying cloth. Remove the battery dry off if needed and spray the contacts with WD Contact Cleaner, bike and battery. I normally give the motor area and area your on about a quick blast with the compressor and a spray with contact cleaner also then leave it to dry off. It's under the stairs in the house so warm.

Still considering designing something up to 3D print in ABS as there are obvious mounting locations on the shock guard could also tidy up the cable routes with inbuilt trunking... unsure if it would be any better than a Pakora tray but definitely more fun to play with the 3D printer..
I've removed the cover plate a couple of times and yes there have been a small amount of pine needles and stones in there down around the main power but it's been nothing to cry about. I agree with Gary some moto foam in there cut to fit to fill the voids will do the job as it's only stones etc which collect in there, I do run RRP rear and extended mudguards on the Vitus so maybe they are helping?

The only bad thing I've seen inside the terminal case is the spare light connection points as they aren't water tight like the rest of the connectors, tested them and they are off by default with no voltage.. I'd question running lights or anything else off these terminal and would recommend leaving them without power IMO.