Chain chat / chain snapping / #E*POWAH?

[Jdog]

Pop, Crackle, Snap said the chain to the rice crispy...

I had been lucky and only snapped 2 chains in 12 years of MTBing and I put this down the the high level of maintenance I do and the sympathetic caressing of my gear changes...however my 4/5 week old ebike has snapped a chain already and I think it's quite an interesting snap as I've never seen it snap like this before:

Anyone else seen a snap like this? It completely twisted and bent the chain so much so that I couldn't even carry out a trail side repair and ended up walking my bike 3 miles back to my car This happened on Saturday around 3 miles into my ride and before that ride I had just cleaned and applied wet lubed to the chain.

I've checked the mission control app I have only covered 66 miles on this chian too! It's the standard chain from the Specialized Kenevo comp 2020 that is listed on the spesh website as a KMC X11ET, 11-speed w/ Missing Link.

I am wondering if I got unlucky with a duff chain or if I am at fault or if it it's just straight E*POWAH?! So let's talk chains and please participate in the poll as i'd like to know people's preferences on chain manufacturers.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Your images aren't showing up on mine .. ?!?! just a number and .jpg ..

Sounds like you're E*POWAH too much for a mere chain !!

 

[Jdog]

@Zimmerframe what about now?

 

[Zimmerframe]

That works ... And it looks like you used the chain to recover a 20 tonne excavator ! ?

 

[CjP]

Is it possible something got stuck in there and just split it? Very unusual break.

 

[Zoot Allures]

Ah ….. interesting
Had the same chain snap on my 2020 Kenevo Comp about 3 weeks in (so chain had very little wear and well lubed etc). Thought it was a bit unusual at the time, but presumed I must have got a branch caught up in it etc. Wonder if there's a duff batch of KMC X11ET chains out there?
Have replaced with SRAM

 

[Jdog]

I have also replaced with a SRAM chain (PC1130) got a stella black Friday deal to make it less painful.

On the day of the snap I had just pottered along a flat fire road for about 2.2 miles then did around 1 mile of steady climbing on the same fire road so nothing should have got into the chain and I was still warming up so it was all low gear and low effort stuff.

At the top of the fire road/hill my first trail beconned which I attacked with the usual trail enthusiasm but less than 10 seconds into the trail I had the failure and the trail was still open so I am fairly certain there is no outside influence for this.

I would also add I wasn't having any problems with chain alignment or clicking prior to this failure and as mentioned I had only just cleaned it with MUC OFF degreaser and a park tools chain cleaning tool then reapplied a wet lube to the chain.

I'll get some more pictures of the failed chain over the weekend. Its interesting that another user on the same bike has had the same failure though.

 

[Gary]

It completely twisted and bent the chain so much so that I couldn't even carry out a trail side repair and ended up walking my bike 3 miles back to my car

surely only a small section of chain twisted. Why couldn't you have removed the twisted links and rejoined the chain with a quick link? (Albeit Rendering the chain too short but sill allowing you to pedal home in a high gear?)
The abovre would assume you carry a quick link and a chain tool (one is fairly pointless without the other TBF)

 

[Gary]

oh... and yeah. I've seen many many chains twist and break like yours has.
it has nothing to do with the brand really.
I've rarely done it myself

I do actually have a preference to which chains I use but without background your poll is completely pointless.

Chain suck could be the cause of your chain breaking/twisting. If it happens on an Emtb the ring keeps turning and pulls the chain around the chainstay whereas on a regular bike you'd feel the chain jam and stop applying pedal force (or back pedal it free) - One reason to NEVER ever run an Emtb mech with no clutch
it could happen be from a gear shift under (intentional or un intentional)
It could also happen from debris in the drivetrain.
It can also happen if a chain has a badly joined link (user or factory joined)
We have no way of knowing.
You do.

 

[Jdog]

@Gary please don't comment on my posts, you're a fucking idiot.

 

[Gary]

Heed my fucking idiotic advice
or
enjoy your next 3 mile walk

Your choice bro

 

[Jdog]

You don't give advice you just rant at people, force your opinion and chat utter bollocks! A typical forum idiot.

Like many others on this forum I don't ever want to read a response from you, delete your comments and disappear.

 

[Zimmerframe]

It's like "Friday Fails" in text...

Jay, in fairness to @Gary, in this instance he only seems to have given advice, suggestions and possibilities. Like everything written, it's easy to miss interpret it what people mean and as @Gary says, he's often miss understood. I would say he can be a bit direct and sometimes opinionated, but maybe I'd be understating ..

Either way, if you don't want to see any Gary comments, all you need to do is hover over his name and click "IGNORE" .. and viola .. you'll never see him or anything he writes ever again.

 

[Jdog]

@Zimmerframe He just does my head in and I've got previous with him but I am happy for you to point out where he said anything of any use. All I see is in his post's are negativity, ranting, arguing and how he's experienced absolutely everything before...If I've been to Tenerife he's been to elevenerife.

surely only a small section of chain twisted. Why couldn't you have removed the twisted links and rejoined the chain with a quick link? (Albeit Rendering the chain too short but sill allowing you to pedal home in a high gear?) Assuming I had a chain tool and quick link on me - I didn't.
The abovre would assume you carry a quick link and a chain tool (one is fairly pointless without the other TBF) A chain tool is useless without a quick link? total bollocks.
oh... and yeah. I've seen many many chains twist and break like yours has. I'm sure you have.
it has nothing to do with the brand really. Fair enough.
I've rarely done it myself. Fair enough.
I do actually have a preference to which chains I use but without background your poll is completely pointless. Without background? When has a poll ever had a background? it's simple poll just vote you idiot.
Chain suck could be the cause of your chain breaking/twisting. If it happens on an Emtb the ring keeps turning and pulls the chain around the chainstay whereas on a regular bike you'd feel the chain jam and stop applying pedal force (or back pedal it free) - One reason to NEVER ever run an Emtb mech with no clutch. The chain didn't jam and you can't back pedal Brose powered Specialized EMTBs.
it could happen be from a gear shift under (intentional or un intentional) Wasn't shifting gears.
It could also happen from debris in the drivetrain. Already said it wasn't.
It can also happen if a chain has a badly joined link (user or factory joined) It's snapped mid link so I doubt it.
We have no way of knowing. Like most things posted but that is the whole idea of a forum.
You do. If I knew would I have posted it?

 

[R120]

Are you sure the clutch was engaged - I have done something similar where I forgot to put clutch on when putting wheel back in, and the chain twisted and snapped like that.

 

[Mikerb]

Firstly I have not voted because I doubt there is any discernable quality difference between the major brands. In terms of the failure you experienced I think a foreign object is the most likely cause and it is most certainly possible to get debris on the cassette or derailleur even on a fireroad....and that debris would most likely be a small stone. Some tyres are excellent at picking up gravel and slinging it! All chains are weak if twisted. I use KMC chains and alternate between the original and a more expensive hollow link chain. Both have worked well. Ps I carry my spare chain and a new master link....quicker and easier to just replace the chain if there are problems.

 

[Gary]

Assuming I had a chain tool and quick link on me - I didn't.

Lesson learned? or will you just cry at the internet blaming your choice of chain if it happens again?

A chain tool is useless without a quick link? total bollocks.

No. a quick link is useless without a way to break the chain. You can sometimes use ingenuity to remove broken links but I doubt very much you have the capacity for such forward thinking.

The chain didn't jam and you can't back pedal Brose powered Specialized EMTBs.

Which is exactly what i said. if you wipe the tears from your eyes, pick up your toys and actually read the words I typed. reading slowly might help.

It's snapped mid link so I doubt it.

Yeah. and when a link pin gives way it almost always bends/twists the link plate and then the force driving it can snap the damaged link.

Without background? When has a poll ever had a background? it's simple poll just vote you idiot.

You do know it's YOU who wrote the post and chose the options, eh?

(intentional or un intentional) Wasn't shifting gears.

I didn't say you were. a shift can happen without you physically touching the shifter. That's what @unintentional" means.

I've got previous with him

What are you even on about? I think you're taking yourself far too seriously here. Calling me names from behind your keyboard is pathetic and like most keyboard hard men I very much doubt you'd do the same to my face.

I'm not some wet behind the ears beginner. My advice here was 100% sound. From many many years mechanical and riding experience. That and the all the knowledge gained while holidaying surrounded by the babes of the Island of Elevenerife

 

[Smithy86]

Lesson learned? or will you just cry at the internet blaming your choice of chain if it happens again?

No. a quick link is useless without a way to break the chain. You can sometimes use ingenuity to remove broken links but I doubt very much you have the capacity for such forward thinking.

Which is exactly what i said. if you wipe the tears from your eyes, pick up your toys and actually read the words I typed. reading slowly might help.

Yeah. and when a link pin gives way it almost always bends/twists the link plate and then the force driving it can snap the damaged link.
You do know it's YOU who wrote the post and chose the options, eh?

I didn't say you were. a shift can happen without you physically touching the shifter. That's what @unintentional" means.


What are you even on about? I think you're taking yourself far too seriously here. Calling me names from behind your keyboard is pathetic and like most keyboard hard men I very much doubt you'd do the same to my face.

I'm not some wet behind the ears beginner. My advice here was 100% sound. From many many years mechanical and riding experience. That and the all the knowledge gained while holidaying surrounded by the babes of the Island of Elevenerife

Drops the mic ?

 

[PsiLoCybia]

I have a chainbreaker and quick link but think it prudent to add a spare chain to my kit bag for longer rides, the thought of a 3 or 4 mile push back to the car is anathema. That being said, what is the minimum chain length I need for a Kenevo? I see the one that comes with it sells as 122 links but the PC1130 referenced is often 114 links long. Is that enough or should I just go with something like the KMC 11EPT? I also notice that the spec'd KMC X11ET doesn't seem to be available, is this just an OEM version?

 

[CjP]

You know if you hold your tongue and read what Gary actually says, most of the time he actually is being helpful. It’s just that he doesn’t sugar coat things for the easily offended. I quite enjoy his approach.
Reminds me of my ex girlfriend, ? for you Gary!
As for your chain dilemma. Just get a chain breaker and some links or as Gary says learn how to reconnect the existing chain and just ride it back in a higher gear.
Personally I do all the above and have a section of old chain on me so I can continue my ride at full pace.

 

[levity]

Finding the best bicycle chain: What over 3,000 hours of testing revealed | CyclingTips

Want to skip the how and why and head straight to the what? Click the links below:

– The most durable 11-speed chains
– The most durable 12-speed chains
– The most efficient 11 & 12 speed chains
– Shimano 105 vs Ultegra vs Dura-Ace
– 8 vs 9 vs 10 vs 11 vs 12-speed durability
– Zero Friction Cycling’s recommendations
– Wrap-up

Spoiler: the KMC chains tested were among the least durable and had the highest cost/mile.

and "As always, run a good lube and keep your drivetrain clean – that’s the real trick to getting the most value and performance from your drivetrain components."

 

[Rusty]

Pretty much a waste of time voting as every manufacturer makes a wide range of chains with a particular use in mind when designing them. They are all pretty much similar really so the biggest thing is to select the proper chain for the application - and no, the most expensive top of the line chain is usually not suitable for an eMTB.
Stay away from hollow pins and cut-away sideplates unless you are jockey weight and/or only ride flat terrain. At our club race the other night a guy was bitching about how shit SRAM chains were after breaking his 3rd 1091R. Thought that because it was expensive it was the best option when he redid his bike as a 10speed. The 1091R is designed for a 10sp road bike and not a heavy eMTB - the dealer actually advised a PC-1051at half the price.

 

[Mattwilko92]

Anyone fitted a Gold chain?

 

[R120]

2chainz 4 da win

 

[Mikerb]

I doubt the ability to apply consistent test conditions in such a study and at the end of the day the chain is the cheapest part of the drivetrain and ( probably) the part that takes most abuse. My experience is also that elongation measured with a chain checker can vary at different points on the chain. Whether a chain has reached 0.5% or 1% there is also no guarantee that the rollers are not unevenly worn. So in my book I avoid expensive chains and change chain based on the conditions it has ensured rather than just go by wear.

 

[CjP]

Ok just today I snapped the chain twice in almost the same way. Bent the same but not split. Just came out from the pin. Bike was having issues indexing gears and I was climbing steep rock gardens in turbo while changing so the worst possible conditions. Nevertheless I thought it was funny considering my original post.
Original chain only 2 months old with abuse and possibly on the dry side.

 

[Rusty]

Try downshifting and not just powering up climbs Christian.

I used to pull chains apart quite often on my singlespeed.

 

[CjP]

That’s the problem I was shifting while powering up climbs. I fell twice today as the trails are super slippery and was a bit rattled so I wasn’t thinking straight.
Totally my fault I know but thought it was relevant to the thread.
Maybe he too likes to shift at the wrong time

 

[Zimmerframe]

I fell twice today as the trails are super slippery

You can't just come along and steal my trademark !

It's quite ironic that it broke after your comments I'm waiting for a new chain to arrive, you've kinda put me off my balls out mud fest crazy ride I had planned for the day ... I feel like the worlds going to take the pee out of me and snap my chain too ...

 

[CjP]

You can't just come along and steal my trademark !

It's quite ironic that it broke after your comments I'm waiting for a new chain to arrive, you've kinda put me off my balls out mud fest crazy ride I had planned for the day ... I feel like the worlds going to take the pee out of me and snap my chain too ...

Oh it gets better, the first fall I slid straight into a small boulder and dinted my down tube which in turn touched the battery and also gouged my fork stanchion. Insurance is getting a call tomorrow.

?