Brake pad life expectancy

[JoeBlow]

I know this is a little like asking how long is a piece of string but typically how long to disk brakes last? I have Tektro brakes on my Trek Powerfly 4 and I'm getting out once or twice a week. Being new to this I suspect that my use of the brakes is probably on the high side. Will they start to make a noise or just become less effective?

Al

 

[Zimmerframe]

On my last bike, the first set were worn out in 500km's. As a newby I didn't so much keep a finger over the brake levers, I more constantly rode the brakes totally unnecessarily, braking for every slight bend, rock, root, leaf, snail to pass me by.

When they did go they were instantly noisy and incredibly ineffective - the rear went first, so I just used the front to get home.

If you look now, you should be able to just about see the usable pad next to the disk. Just keep an eye on that.

My next set had 1000km's on when I sold the bike and they still had plenty of life.

 

[Brendog78]

I find mine tend to get contaminated and performance dropps off or they start squealing. Very rairly do i wear them out. I'm more of a hard late braker who stays off of the brakes as much as possible if I can. I probably change pads on average once per year on my enduro bike, the e bike will likely be a little more often but time will tell.

 

[Dax]

Depends on ground conditions and weather. Pads wear a lot quicker if you're riding in wet sandy conditions than dry loam.

Rider weight and technique also has an impact

 

[steve_sordy]

I ride in sandy conditions. Summer is fine, but wet conditions wear out the pads rapidly. My current bike was new in Jan this year. I have done 815 trail miles and the front is fine, but the rear set is getting close to needing replacement. They will disappear during the first wet ride. I prefer resin pads as they don't make as much noise when wet. I hate noisy pads!

Thanks for the reminder, I'll now go and remove them for a closer look and decide whether to replace them with the new set I've been carrying around for months. Or squeeze out another ride or two.

 

[Trail-Niels]

I find the lifespan depends a lot on riding conditions. I use SRAM Guide 4 pot brakes and 200mm rotors, which gives a large brake contact area and cool rotors. In moist muddy autumn conditions the organic/resin pads last 200-400km while in dry condition they last 3 times longer. In muddy conditions I use sinter metal pads, which lasts longer in wet conditions and can cope on higher temperatures. I rarely run the pads completely down, there should be at least 0,5-1mm material left or I’ll replace them not to ruin the rotors.
If you wear them down they will make a grinding noise, so don’t get there, as braking would be virtually none existing. You can usually see how much braking material is left without removing them. As of new there will usually be more than 2mm of thickness.

 

[steve_sordy]

.........
Thanks for the reminder, I'll now go and remove them for a closer look and decide whether to replace them with the new set I've been carrying around for months. Or squeeze out another ride or two.

Well, I did that. Looks like at least another ride, but not because I didn't want to change them!
The existing caliper is 4-pot and two of the pistons have come out further than the other, although the pads are evenly worn. That implies off centre set up from new to me. Anyway, the pistons won't push back in to make room for the new pads. In case it was hydraulic pressure that was preventing movement, I tried releasing the bleed screw on the lever reservoir, but still nothing. So I put the old pads back in and I'll leave it to the Pines bike shop to sort it out.
They have earned some business from me after changing the headset bearings without prior notice. I just rocked up and asked for some advice and got the offer to go get a coffee and come back in 20 mins. Thanks Alex.

 

[Trail-Niels]

Anyway, the pistons won't push back in to make room for the new pads. In case it was hydraulic pressure that was preventing movement, I tried releasing the bleed screw on the lever reservoir, but still nothing.

Well I’ve had the same issue a few times, but I invested in a brake piston press, which can be used the push back the pistons into the Caliper. https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=13838;menu=1000,185,191;pgc[120]=3976

 

[steve_sordy]

Well they certainly look more efficient than the brake levers I tried, but will certainly provide less leverage then the 12" screwdriver I tried. If I had levered any harder I was convinced that the caliper would have broken off its mountings.

Is this a warranty issue, or just "consumable items"? I agree that the pads are consumables, but jamming pistons?

 

[Trail-Niels]

Is this a warranty issue, or just "consumable items"? I agree that the pads are consumables, but jamming pistons?

It’s fairly normal, that the pistons stick, they just need some lube and exercise. You may apply some brake grease to the part of the pistons that is visible, and then using a set of old pistons you can shift push from one side to another with the piston press. That way the exposed part of the pistons will get lubed, and you might get it centered again.

 

[Indigo]

@steve_sordy check the kit that came with your bike. My 2019 Levo came with this black thing that looks like a bottle opener, but is actually a brake piston press tool. Or maybe it's both

 

[Trail-Niels]

@steve_sordy check the kit that came with your bike. My 2019 Levo came with this black thing that looks like a bottle opener, but is actually a brake piston press tool. Or maybe it's both
View attachment 18460

It’s actually just a brake pad block, that you put in place when you remove the wheel, in order to secure that an accidental press on the brake lever won’t push out the pistons. - and it’s a bottle opener too

 

[steve_sordy]

Well, I did that. Looks like at least another ride, but not because I didn't want to change them!
The existing caliper is 4-pot and two of the pistons have come out further than the other, although the pads are evenly worn. That implies off centre set up from new to me. Anyway, the pistons won't push back in to make room for the new pads. In case it was hydraulic pressure that was preventing movement, I tried releasing the bleed screw on the lever reservoir, but still nothing. So I put the old pads back in and I'll leave it to the Pines bike shop to sort it out.
They have earned some business from me after changing the headset bearings without prior notice. I just rocked up and asked for some advice and got the offer to go get a coffee and come back in 20 mins. Thanks Alex.

It turned out to be a piston that had cracked at the back, which is why it wouldn't push back in. Unfortunately Shimano don't sell pistons, just a complete caliper. The only good news is that the caliper comes with new pads. Dale at the bike shop would have had it going in time for a planned ride on Sunday (thanks Dale), but he needs to wait for the new Shimano caliper to arrive, so not until Tuesday.

 

[Trail-Niels]

It turned out to be a piston that had cracked at the back, which is why it wouldn't push back in. Unfortunately Shimano don't sell pistons, just a complete caliper. The only good news is that the caliper comes with new pads. Dale at the bike shop would have had it going in time for a planned ride on Sunday (thanks Dale), but he needs to wait for the new Shimano caliper to arrive, so not until Tuesday.

If a piston had cracked at back, and you still have warrenty, it should be covered, as such things is not supposed to happen. Which brakes caliper do you have?

 

[steve_sordy]

If a piston had cracked at back, and you still have warrenty, it should be covered, as such things is not supposed to happen. Which brakes caliper do you have?

Yes the bike is still under warranty, and I agree that the pistons should not crack at the back. But if I made a warranty claim while the caliper was on the bike, I could be without the bike for quite a while. The bike supplier is also a 3-hour round trip for me, whereas letting the Pines workshop fix it means that I'll be back on the bike on Tuesday. I'll only miss a ride on Sunday.

I'll ask Dale to retain the old caliper and I'll try to make a warranty claim later from J E James in Sheffield. They have been very good so far. Fingers crossed!

Update: Dale has agreed to pursue the warranty claim for me with Madison, the Shimano agent for the UK. Good man, I'll get him a packet of Smarties as a thank you!

 

[Trail-Niels]

I'll ask Dale to retain the old caliper and I'll try to make a warranty claim later from J E James in Sheffield. They have been very good so far. Fingers crossed!

If he usually deal with Shimano, he should be able to make the warranty claim on your behalf. Shimano is Shimano wherever it’s bought - I’d give it a shot if I were you.

 

[Kingfisher]

It also depends on the brand/quality of the brake pad. Better (iow more expensiver) brake pads last longer and brake better.

 

[DTZ]

On my 2019 Levo base model the rear pads had to be replaced after approx 500 miles and I've just ordered some new fronts as they're about gone now as well.

I guess the wear wasn't helped by a lot of riding in Austria which involved some pretty heavy braking from 40mph+

As I have a base model with 2 pot rears and 4 pot fronts I've gone for sintered pads in the rear and its made a massive difference to the braking power. I was considering a 2 to 4 pot upgrade but don't think I'll bother now.

 

[JimBo]

I know this is a little like asking how long is a piece of string but typically how long to disk brakes last? I have Tektro brakes on my Trek Powerfly 4 and I'm getting out once or twice a week. Being new to this I suspect that my use of the brakes is probably on the high side. Will they start to make a noise or just become less effective?

Al

For me, brake pad lifespan depends as much on elevation change as mileage, if not more (same with chains). As far as waiting for noise or diminished performance to change pads, that can lead to unnecessary rotor damage so I do visual checks every few rides.

 

[55plusmxinsanity]

For me, brake pad lifespan depends as much on elevation change as mileage, if not more (same with chains). As far as waiting for noise or diminished performance to change pads, that can lead to unnecessary rotor damage so I do visual checks every few rides.

Weather too. I have over 500 miles on mine, still plenty of pad left. I’m in dry desert.