bike chain replacement

[Legendary-dave]

So I’ve had my bike now 5 weeks ....just wondering if I have a chain break or I need to replace through wear ....how much are they and who and where is the best place to get one from
Many thanks

 

[Rusty]

I would suggest something from the Middle-of-the-Road range. Something like a KMC X10 or X11 perhaps. The reason I say this is that while there are 'better' chains these are usually lighter due to hollow pins or side plate and better shifting due to design factors as well as special coatings I don't believe they are suitable for ebikes. With the increased torque and higher power than most put out with analogue bikes there is far more strain on a chain.
Basically you would want a level or two up from the cheapest ones. That level usually has chrome or some other plating that helps against rusting.

Price and where to get from is probably associated to your LBS. Having a good relationship with my LBS something like a $50 chain I will get for say $40.
I have been known to buy from a shop that is down country which sometimes has some wicked deals in their monthly mailer.

 

[Legendary-dave]

I would suggest something from the Middle-of-the-Road range. Something like a KMC X10 or X11 perhaps. The reason I say this is that while there are 'better' chains these are usually lighter due to hollow pins or side plate and better shifting due to design factors as well as special coatings I don't believe they are suitable for ebikes. With the increased torque and higher power than most put out with analogue bikes there is far more strain on a chain.
Basically you would want a level or two up from the cheapest ones. That level usually has chrome or some other plating that helps against rusting.

Price and where to get from is probably associated to your LBS. Having a good relationship with my LBS something like a $50 chain I will get for say $40.
I have been known to buy from a shop that is down country which sometimes has some wicked deals in their monthly mailer.

Thanks ...I’m totally new to e mtb and am trying to get as much info as possible...I’m sure I’m ok for a while but it’s good to know what to do when the time comes ....

 

[Rusty]

I think one of the most important things is that because more torque is put through the system it is more important that basic running gear maintenance is strictly adhered to. Never used to do much more than scrub my chains with a stiff brush and keep them correctly lubed. I now drop the chain every couple hundred km and give it a little extra TLC. I also take the opportunity then to take the rear wheel off and give the cassette a good going over with a soft solvent and a toothbrush - amazing how much buildup there can be.

 

[steve_sordy]

Make sure you buy a chain that is long enough, ie it has enough links. If in doubt count how many half-inch links you have. If the chain you get is longer than the one you have, shorten it and fit the same number of links. Keep the links you remove as spares in case you snap the chain on a ride. Buy some magic links. Carry them and your spare links in your backpack. Buy a multi-tool that has a chain breaker. You will need a multi tool anyway, so you may as well get a proper one.

Try Chain Reaction Cycles as they have a good range of most things you will need. Once you have the exact name of what you want, Google it to see who else has it at maybe a lower price.

 

[Pukmeister]

Prevention is better than cure as they say:

To avoid premature wear, I clean my chain, cassette and derailleur after every ride and use a teflon dry lube instead of oil based lube to prevent a paste of grit forming.

I clean between the gears on the cassette by wrapping a thin clean rag around a 12" engineers steel rule and sliding through to collect the dirt. Its amazing the filth that hides in the cassette and acts as grinding paste.

Also its best to ease pedal pressure during shifts to prevent chain/cassette wear:

I notice if I am shifting gears in the higher assistance settings there is more tendency for my motor to keep pulling and chew at the gears (despite backing off), so now I am in the habit of planning my downsifts into lower ratios first before climbing, then dialling in more assistance on the buttons if needed...... If I dial in the assistance first then try to drop a gear ratio it isn't very easy on the drive train, you can feel it.

If you are really worried about a chain break, its probably worth carrying a spare split link and chain tools with you in case you break a chain mid-ride.

In my case its a KMC X-11 chain suitable for e-bikes from LBS or online if and when needed, measured at 0.75% stretch with a chain stretch gauge.

 

[Pukmeister]

Worth a read.....

Chain and Cassette worn out after 193 miles - EMTB Forums