I have added the 220mm Hope to the front but have not changed the caliper yet. Even so, I can feel the difference. it may be that 220 on the rear is overkill - the way i ride is a bit more binary with the rear. Once it gets steep i tend to just drag the back end....
Kenevo Gen1 Official 2020 Kenevo Owners Thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Yes correct. The dual crowns run a straight tube.
It’s more noticeable on long descends, I went with the 200mm vented rotor on the rear to see what that was like. My brakes are solid and have never faded once.
Like cars you can never have too much brake.
Cool. Thanks. So a CC Series 40 1.5” to 1 1/8” reducer crown fits well with the stock bearings?
I still haven’t been able to locate the 2020 expert headset specs. If anybody has them (or a link to a suitable Cane Creek 40 I’d be very grateful!
This is the one I used for my Ohlins and the same one for my brothers Boxxers. It all works with the standard bearings
I ordered the reducer one last night, as I thought this was needed for the tapered headtube?
If you have the Kenevo expert with the dual crowns then you need the one I posted above. If you have the single crown Kenevo Comp then you need the 1.5 steerer crown race.
Maybe I’m looking at this wrong but that seems strange to me. The reducer converts a 1 1/8” steerer (as per the Boxxers) to work in a 1.5” headtube (which the Kenevo has) doesn’t it? The one you posted above would be needed in a standard straight 1 1/8” headtube, right?
To my knowledge all headtubes are the same size. It’s only the internal size of the crown race that changes. In any case the one that I linked above is the exact one I ordered and worked on both my bike and my brothers bike.
I think I actually did order the one you are talking about. It was just labelled slightly differently on the website. Fingers crossed it solves the issue!
Nice looking bike. I have been fighting the creak too. Cleaning the stantions, clamps on the crowns, and steerer tube seem to stop it for a bit. I think the top crown/steerer tube/top cap interface might be the big problem. Just my .02
Change the crown race to a cane creek 40 Series 52/30 1-1/8.
The Cane Creek crown race didn't fix my creaking, but it is so much better than the split stock one. Its nice to have a seal there too.
Maybe loosen the crowns and reset them? Could be out of alignment slightly.
rydeezie
Well-known member
Previous S3 (black) and Current S4 (Olive)
Last edited:
DynamicObserver
New Member
Haven't noticed any creaking yet on mine- should I change the crown race to the cane creek? I dont mind doing out out of precaution or if its of better quality. Mines a 2020 Kenny expert with the boxxers
Not necessary but a few people have had issues with the standard split bearing race failing or making strange sounds. For the price, I just change it to be safe.
Salespunk
Active member
Quick intro since I am new to the site. Been riding MTB since 1988 (yes I am old) and have owned multiple Levo's and both versions of the Kenevo.
Current setup is getting pretty dialed now. Build is a 2020 Kenevo frame, upgraded 700wHr battery, 2020 Lyrik Select fork (temporary to test 29 wheels), Fox X2 Factory rear shock, Roval 29 Carbon wheels (temporary for testing), Renthal cockpit, PNW Bachelor post, WTB Silverado saddle, Saint brakes, CushCore front and rear, full AXS XX1 drivetrain.
Planning on building a new custom wheelset now that I am now that I am sure about the 29 wheels. I have done a lot of experimentation so happy to answer any questions on the multiple iterations I have gone through.
Current setup is getting pretty dialed now. Build is a 2020 Kenevo frame, upgraded 700wHr battery, 2020 Lyrik Select fork (temporary to test 29 wheels), Fox X2 Factory rear shock, Roval 29 Carbon wheels (temporary for testing), Renthal cockpit, PNW Bachelor post, WTB Silverado saddle, Saint brakes, CushCore front and rear, full AXS XX1 drivetrain.
Planning on building a new custom wheelset now that I am now that I am sure about the 29 wheels. I have done a lot of experimentation so happy to answer any questions on the multiple iterations I have gone through.
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It’s rude not to post pictures
Salespunk
Active member
Sorry, hit send accidentally. They are added now!
Yeah nice! Are you going with a 38 fork?
Salespunk
Active member
Most likely, have one on my Enduro and love it
Yeah it’s a no brainer on an ebike.
The QM45 seems to be specced as being 180-220 for front, but 140-180 rear - did that cause any issues? There is an existing adaptor on the base frame posts to fit the 200mm rotor....
Required reading for all those that think 220 on the rear is overkill.
Ending the rotor size myth – Why you should have a bigger brake rotor at the back than the front
Small up front, big at the rear? Contrary to popular belief, many of us should ride with bigger rotors at the rear than at the front. Read on to find out why:
enduro-mtb.com
No issues, it is perfect.
220mm rotor and QM45 ordered for the rear......Required reading for all those that think 220 on the rear is overkill.
Ending the rotor size myth – Why you should have a bigger brake rotor at the back than the front
Small up front, big at the rear? Contrary to popular belief, many of us should ride with bigger rotors at the rear than at the front. Read on to find out why:
panaphonic
New Member
Does anyone use an air shock on the rear of their Kenevo? My Bomber CR just died and I'm thinking an air shock could liven up the bike.
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