Even in my pedal-only bike days, I had to run DH level tires on the rear to get at least some tire life and hold off punctures. Riding in tough, rocky terrain in my home area, and even in places like Moab, Utah, I've almost always ridden big hit, long travel bikes like the Santa Cruz Bullit and...
Gotcha. Over many years of MTB'ing, I've always found the rear wheel to be the weak link. That's logical since by the nature of use and design, the rear wheel almost always takes the hits the most aggressively. Not that you can't taco a front wheel by any means.
On my Trek Rail 7 the front...
When you say "lift" you don't really have to lift the front wheel with your hands to put it into most front wheel holders on most bumper hitch tray racks. There is usually a hold down arm or hoop the grabs the front wheel/tire. This would usually allow you to stand the bike on the rear wheel...
Yes, there are other considerations, but the OP seems mainly concerned with transporting that doesn't injure or challenge his back. These bikes are heavy, and while I haven't gotten to the nursing home stage in life, the old saying...work smarter not harder...comes to mind to make it easier on...
Your take is the same as mine. While I don't race MTB/EMTB enduros on my Gen II Trek Rail 7, I do ride where we have state circuit dirt motorcycle enduros. I don't find the weight or power...used exclusively on Turbo...to be difficult to manage at all even in tight terrain. This is my first...
Yeah, I do something similar. I use a simple, old, Swagman Sitka that I pieced/parted out of broken parts from the shop for free. I too found my Trek Rail 7 to be a decent heavy lift when loading the bike conventionally.
After putzing about a bit, I figure out that I can lock the rear brake...
I'm not going to poo-poo the evidence that people are having issues with their e13 crank arms, but we've not seen that at our shop where we're a Trek, Spec, and Santa Cruz dealer. In particular we have a demo Gen 1 Rail 7 with the originally delivered e13 crank arms.
Right off the bat we...
Well I certainly agree with you about the silly cap on speed limits on our emtb's. I don't ride on pavement and city streets. And in the off road environment, the 15 or so mph limit is absolutely ridiculous. Even at my age I can often exceed that on my pedal only bike in many places on a...
Dang...I've worked part time at a bike shop for quite a few years as a mechanic, and I never heard about ABS on an emtb. I'm a motorcycle guy too, and of course that's been around on them for quite a while. Obviously I don't know everything...LOL!...an obvious confession, and I don't know all...
Yes, it's quite logical to associate extreme heat levels to motor failure as extreme heat is almost always the death of any motor, electric or ICE. But to really assess how it may play into an emtb motor failure, you'd really have to have the ability to measure it. For example in that Bafang...
I'd say water...along with mud...is the biggest enemy of any of these motors, and when I say water, I mean an actual dunking in a stream or creek crossing. And I'll tell you what...it's even the evil of high quality dirt motorcycles, though it's not usually the motor unless you got deep enough...
I've used Fox Titan models for years. I didn't think they'd work that well in a crash...I come from actual dirt motorcycle riding pants with knee/shin guards that stay in place...and I thought they'd be uncomfortable, but after quite a few sets over the years, they've been tested quite a bit...
OP, have you been struck by lightning in the past? If so there may be some kind of residual charge in your biological makeup.
No, just kidding and not making light of your situation. That's pretty bad luck, especially when your motors haven't been flooded or apparently mistreated. I've seen...